Up North in Batanes

I'm about to take a trip to another beautiful part of our country with the same cast of characters and I still haven't finished my Batanes posts.  So here is one last one--only because these photos are so gorgeous.

and so are we (hee hee)

Batanes has a variety of rolling hills, steep cliffs, and dramatic shorelines. Now and then, they are punctuated by a rustic abandoned structure or  makeshift shed like this one below.

local men playing cards

It would be hard to take a bad picture in Batanes. All these pictures are just snapped by a regular point-and-shoot camera and my phone.

Batanes is a photographer's paradise.

For city kids who are usually staring into a computer screen or looking down at some gadget, this is also paradise.

Okay, I spoke too soon. When you are overwhelmed with your surroundings, a selfie is excusable.

When people see these pictures, they can't believe landscapes like these exists in the Philippines.  

Mind you, this lying down business in not prompted.

It seems to be a natural reaction to beautiful wide open space, clear skies and clean air. Our country has many of these places (just need to discover them), but I think Batanes is in a class of its own

Our guide told us that Batanes was also very popular with couples who like taking engagement photos. The guy above was in a light-colored linen suit and they were taking turns riding the bike, while their guide/photographer took their photos.

(Btw, our guide also provides that service--he can take you around, and document your trip with his own camera too)

The photos will look like they went to some romantic far away place when actually they are only up north in Batanes. But okay, Batanes is still a bit remote.

I hope the people in charge of Batanes preserve the beauty of the province and not let it get run down by commercialism.

From my last visit twenty years ago, more areas of the island are accessible by vehicle, like this spot that looks so much like Hawaii.

Go visit Batanes while you can. It's not cheap, but it's totally worth the trip.

Meanwhile, we're off on another adventure...

Mama's Table, Baguio

On my sister's prodding, I texted Chef Vicky Tinio Clemente when I was in Baguio last week. 

Lita's friend, Beng, had been able to book a group of 3 for dinner because Vicky was already cooking for a bigger group. Although Vicky only takes one group at a time, Beng had convinced her to include her little group. When Beng heard I was going to be in Baguio that same weekend, she told me that maybe, just maybe, Vicky could also accommodate our family of 4.

"I heard you're cooking dinner for a group of people tomorrow. In the wild chance you have room for a few more, we are four",  I was very hesitant to ask just the day before, but Lita kept texting me from Manila''"Call Vicky, okay? I'm sure you'll love it."

Vicky texted me back on Saturday noon to say yes, she could accommodate us that same night.

What luck! Hopeful diners usually book way ahead, and make it a point to gather a group for the experience. Here we were, spontaneously asking, and spontaneously being included! Happiness!

  We arrived in time to help devour breads and dips, fresh oysters and cheese.

Chef Vicky opens her home, for private dinners (six diners minimum). She usually books only one group at a time but I think she scanned her guest list and guessed correctly that we all knew each other. 

When we got there, it felt like we had entered an aunt's home and were greeting cousins. We socialized over the appetizers, then sat down in two different tables.

Too bad it was already dark when we got there and we couldn't appreciate the view. I heard the view of the mountains from her house is spectacular.

After about thirty minutes of socializing and appetizers, it was time to take our seats and begin our 8-course degustation meal.

This is a truffled custard on top of caramelized onions and mushrooms served inside an eggshell. The finger toasts had anchovy butter.

This was the first time the girls were experiencing a dinner as fancy as this and they were excited at the sight of the flatware they were going to use.

Next was a very clean tasting broth poured over a dollop of chicken mousse. Chef Vicky came to the table to describe each dish. She also explained, in great detail, how everything was cooked and the many unusual steps necessary to achieve the flavors.

In between the soup and the next dish was this unique palette cleanser--a cheese crisp topped with a melted marshmallow. Salty and sweet at the same time.

Then came the fish course--a firm but very tender halibut in a flavorful sauce.  I should be able to describe exactly what was in the sauce because Vicky did explain it, but I don't remember the details.

After the fish, we needed to take a short break. The meat course had just been seared and was being finished off in the oven.  It still needed to rest for a few minutes before being sliced and served.

The evening was casual and relaxed and we were in the company of old acquaintances. We didn't mind the pacing and lingering over interesting conversation.

Now to continue. This little amuse bouche dumpling prepared us for the meat course. Again, I forget exactly what this was but it was very delicious.

And finally, the  roast tenderloin with a red wine sauce and a serving of rissoni pasta and haricot verts.

One can order a simpler 5-course degustation meal for children but I think these girls would be very upset if I did. They were enjoying this meal immensely and were polishing everything off their plates!

We finished off with a plate of greens--watercress with pomelo, orange and very sweet pineapple, tossed with a citrus dressing. I loved this.

For the finale, a light but sinful pavlova with fresh mangoes and strawberries, topped with chocolate sauce. The girls inhaled theirs and C was bold enough to ask for another one. Just like in a aunt's house, another serving appeared before her.

What a lovely evening this turned out to be, and a unique experience for all of us.

 The other group sat in the big table

Chef Vicky's house is beautiful, welcoming and cozy. Her mother joined us before and after the dinner. At 93 years old, she is elegant and animated and obviously enjoys these gatherings Vicky has at home.

I'm glad I listened to Lita and Beng, happy I texted Vicky, and delighted to have had this unusual experience at Mama's Table. Sometimes the best experiences just happen without much planning.

Salamat Chef Vicky! We loved our evening with you!

Mama's Table 
by Vicky Tinio Clemente
+ 63 915 643 8775
mamastableph@yahoo.com

Honesty Coffee Shop, Batanes

So much has already been written about Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana, Batanes but I didn't see this store back in 1995 when we were there.  It seems that it opened that same year.

Since that time, any feature article on Batanes would mention this unique store.

The store is stocked with little snacks like chips, hard boiled eggs, crackers and candies--just like a sari-sari store. There are also some souvenir items. 

But there is no one minding the store. You help yourself to whatever you want, and leave your payment in a box--hence the name: "Honesty" store name. I don't know where the "coffee shop" comes from unless there is a thermos of coffee which I missed.

Signs around the store that say "God is watching you"  or "God knows Hudas not pay" is enough to keep you honest.

The owners had to be tending a farm instead of hanging out in a store, so this model was devised out of necessity. Over the past 20 years, it has turned out to be pure marketing genius.

It's not just a store anymore--it's now a feel-good tourist spot since everyone who comes to Batanes likes to see and photograph the "Honesty Coffee Shop" (just like us). Sometimes they even leave money (not like us) without even taking anything.

Ivana town, Batanes

From my trip to Batanes in 1995, I remember the churches with brightly-colored facades.  This is San Jose de Ivana church. It has been nicely maintained throughout the years.

 

Here I am with fellow golfers (yes, I was a golfer in another life) in front of the same church in 1995. 

I remember we had a nice visit with the parish priest back them. Too bad I didn't take down his name.

 

Today the grounds of the church are a bit more manicured. Look at how big these podocarpus maki trees are. In Manila, we see them usually as bushes or hedges.
 

The boats to Sabtang island leave from Ivana town. The church faces the pier and Sabtang.

To the left of the pier is the famous "Honesty Cafe".

 I love the rustic windows of Batanes.

The view of the sea and Sabtang must be spectacular from up there.

 

But I'm already tired just watching them from down here. 

(I can hear my dad's voice in my head. "Haaay nakuuuu Marivic! Whaaat are those kids doing up theeeere?!?!?!")

 

Exploring.  Having fun. Batanes is beautiful. Can't say it enough.

(I'm glad they got down safely. whew!)