Cooling Off...

Wouldn't it be great to have an Ice Bar in Manila right now? It's been so hot that even Mochi who is usually jumping around with so much energy is just lazing around, trying to find a cool spot to plop on, and then she doesn't move much for the rest of the day. I feel just like her.

I think with the ridiculous electric bills in this country, the owner will probably close within a month. Then what about those brownouts? 

Bar Ice is in Koh Samui, just off the main road. I think we paid about 500 baht each, and we got a fluffy hat and a down-like coat. The entrance fee comes with one drink. We were there only for thirty minutes--enough for one drink and photo ops. Nice.

Wow Thailand, and I'm only at the Airport!

Thailand tourism or airport authority really has their act together. On a quick trip to Koh Samui in 2008, I was amazed at the development I saw. Firstly, landing in that huge modern airport in Bangkok after not being there for a few years was shocking. Wasn't I in Bangkok just a few years back?When did they get a new airport? Where I come from, airports take decades to complete--and then it doesn't even open!  On the way to the Bangkok Air gate for my connection, I checked out the new stores and cafes.

When I  finally got to the gate, I was surprised to see a colorfully designed waiting lounge which I thought was for business class passengers. What airline is this again? Bangkok Airways? I never took this airline before so had no idea what kind of service it had.

What is not obvious is that the lounge is open to all passengers no matter what class you are flying. There were a couple of American families outside telling their kids not to go in, so I wasn't the only one confused. I went in anyway and realized it was an equal opportunity lounge!  There were assorted canapes, fruit and even popcorn. Interesting lounge fare.

I boarded the plane for Koh Samui feeling good about Bangkok Airways and loving Thailand even more. Then I land in Koh Samui and another WOW. Now THIS is what provincial airports should look like--the concept of resort architecture in an airport. Open air and relaxed an free Wi-fi even! Now I am in an even better mood. Galeng. Wow Thailand!

Koh Samui is nice, but I wasn't blown away. Our beaches are even more beautiful than Koh Samui's and the our resorts are also world class. Now if only we had the proper infrastructure to support this. Hay naku. Thrilled for Thailand, and sad for us.

Goodbye Koh Samui

Kubli Springs

We read somewhere that this was going to be an incredibly amazing experience. Maybe we expected too much--or maybe the blog posts on previous experiences were just a bit too gushing. Although it was really a unique experience and exciting for the kids, we had to think awhile before it dawned on us why this was supposed to be one of the best dining experiences in the Viaje del Sol.

Kinabuhayan Cafe  has an unassuming frontage and no sign. Inside we were greeted by Jay, who among many other things, was a production designer in a previous life (he thought we looked familiar, and when I jokingly said he must've seen us on TV or in the movies, he started asking which ones!) He now lives a  much more relaxed and simple life. He offers very rustic lodgings for free, as long as you have all your meals at his cafe.   He has space I think for 6 people, maybe more. Two of the huts are the local version of a canopy bed. Just take a look...

This "cottage" sleeps two on an elevated platform

There's a tree house, and 3 other nipa pavilions with bamboo slat flooring. One of the huts was his living room. It had a tv and an online laptop. The huts had roman shades for privacy, but no doors.

We were supposed to "check in" with him here and then go somewhere for a swim and lunch. Some of us weren't that prepared since you have to be in footwear that can get wet, and no way my Fit Flops were getting dunked in water. We had someone buy rubber slippers at the palengke which was two minutes away by tricycle and then we were good to go.

This is Onion, Jay's pet pig

Jay counted us, accepted the balance of our payment and then we were off.  12 minutes away by car from the Kinabuhayan Cafe is Kubli Springs. I read somewhere that this is still part of Jay's property, but I'm not sure. The spring is potable mineral water from below the ground (spring nga!). We drank the water flowing from the bamboo poles, and definitely not from the stream in which people were swimming.

Cool mineral water direct from the source at Kubli Springs

When we got to the stream, the whole barangay seemed to be spending their Good Friday there too (hey, we did Stations of the Cross in the morning, so we weren't feeling to guilty about having a "restful swim by the stream"). It was a little embarrassing to be invading their local watering hole, and after walking through the crowd, we were able to find some rocks to park ourselves on. Unfortunately, someone in our group cut his foot on a rock (or most probably broken glass) and we had to administer first aid and compress the wound so that it would stop bleeding. We kept it bandaged with a torn towel the whole time and figured a couple of hours without medical attention wouldn't hurt. I know the kids would've wailed if we had to abort the whole plan. (The cut foot eventually had to be stitched. Luckily, just 2 minutes from Casa San Pablo is a medical center. My friend was impressed--he treated promptly and professionally--on Good Friday at that!)

The kids immediately jumped into the stream and had a good time soaking and cooling off. I could imagine the local people thinking--of all the places you people can go, you come pa here to our local "swimming pool"! My driver, probably also wondering the same thing even said "mam, yung ganito sa amin, mas maganda kaysa dito". But we were here and it was  going to be a first for all of us promdis. (promidisiti!)

An hour and a half hour later,  Jay arrives with lunch. He is carrying a wok of mushroom risotto. His two guys set out  round wooden table tops on the rocks, laid out the spread. Menu consisted of a shredded carrot and cucumber salad with a pesto dressing, the warm mushroom risotto in the wok, an eggplant parmigiana and a small portion of roast pork. It was carbo-overload, but his dishes were all good. After lunch our group figured that this was the most unique part--getting served sosyal food in this Amorsolo-esque setting. Had we been served grilled tilapia and kamatis, it might have been a regular picnic in the batis--altho that would still be something unique for us too!

Jay's Kinabuhayan Cafe gets a lot of foreign backpackers as well as locals on an adventure.  For P750, it is an interesting local experience. A bit pricey compared to the meal we had at Ugu's  (500 each) and also at the newly opened Sulyap (average check was 500 per person). But for a foreigner, $14.00 is worth every penny for the experience he will get. How for example, is a  foreigner ever going to find his way to a stream and feel safe to swim surrounded by local strangers?  Two of Jay's guys were constantly with us, keeping watch over our things, our kids, and just being all-around helpful.

Bring aquasox if you plan to go make your way down to the spring. It might look odd compared to the locals who are so skilled at balancing on the rocks as well as avoiding whatever sharp objects are between them. Also, since everyone was swimming in shorts and t-shirts, the locals might get shocked if you show up in a sexy bikini.  Lastly, go when it is a quiet weekend. When the crowds left (after soaping and rinsing themselves in the 'natural shower' made of bamboo poles) the place was quiet, serene and actually quite magical.

I think it would have been a very different experience for us had we had the place all to ourselves. But even with the crowd, we all agreed it was a unique adventure--most specially for the guy who got himself stitched.

My Custom Chandelier

After months of procrastinating, I finally gave the go signal for it to be made. It took about 60 days to complete, I think more. Then Monica came over and had it installed. That's her husband there checking on the crystals. Monica has made tons of chandeliers for people in the last 15 or twenty years. Sadly, she didn't document them! I told her she could have a coffee table book by now! I'm amazed at her talent and artistry. She also does wall finishes and furniture finishing. Again, she hasn't kept records of the projects she's done. Sayang!

I told her the shape I wanted, and to use the french biscuit crystals. I thought the wrought iron was a bit too stiff-looking in the beginning, but then it has that modern edge to it. The chandelier I saw in Paris, even if I'm in love with it, might make my house a bit too dramatic. And besides, I haven't figured out how to ship stuff home from Paris!

I'm excited and want to have more things done with Monica. I'm now looking over my old furniture and figuring out which pieces she can refinish. Also looking for a hall mirror and I've seen many nice mirrors in her workshop. Or maybe this time I should wait until I can figure out how to ship one home from one of those flea markets! 

Chandeliers at Porta Portese

Our flight home was on a Sunday evening so what better way to spend the morning than at the Porta Portese flea market? Among stalls selling clothes and factory-overruns of shoes (size 6 only, so no luck for me), there were some nice hardware stalls and this chandelier guy.

I should've bought some of the loose crystals to upgrade my wall fixtures that I bought online from an American site.

The crystal pieces I come across in the flea markets in Europe are not cheap. From 3 to 5 euros each! But European crystals are much heavier than the American or Chinese ones. Apparently, to be called "crystal" in the States, the glass has to have only 1% of lead in it. In the EU, it is regulated and has to be between 10 to 30% to be called "crystal".

Of course the heavier ones are thought to be more superior crystals, but for me, I don't really like the rainbow reflection of the "very crystal" crystals. I like glass to sparkle and shine, but not to reflect any color. So maybe I'm okay with the low end of the lead content.

So I have my dining chandelier and some sconces on the wall. I'm still thinking of where I can hang something--I still have my foyer and my bathroom! I want something from a flea market in Paris!

Sissy Boy Homeland

In Amsterdam last summer, we came across this concept store called Sissy-boy Homeland. Strange name for a store and it was at the basement of a little mall. I could see houseware from the first floor so I went down the escalator and was pleasantly surprised.

The store had clothes, toys, fun retro stuff, and then a houseware section like Pottery Barn. There were plates, glasses, knickknacks, and then even furniture and chandeliers! I loved the look of the store and but what struck me were the chandeliers because I wanted one for my dining room. I took some photos for my file until a salesperson told me it wasn't allowed.

Good thing I snapped enough. I couldn't find a chandelier I liked locally so I had one made. It didn't come out exactly how I envisioned it, but I like it a lot still. I have tons of chandelier photos and I'd like to think I finally know what I like about each one--from the silhouette of the chandelier, to the shape of the crystals.  I also love that chair above and realized it a recurring theme in most of my design file photos.

Carlitos the Sculptor

Still at the Viaje del Sol area, we visited the workshop of Carlitos Ortega, renowned brass sculptor. Carlitos sat us down and gave a very informal ten-minute lecture on art, and how he works with the brass. He is warm and funny and the adults found him very engaging.  He actually retired at the age of 42, to concentrate on his art. He says of course there is not much money in being an artist, but he finds so much fulfillment is happy and content with his decision. After seeing Ugu and Carlitos' art, it really makes me want to pull out those blank canvasses gathering dust in my cluttered garage. I just need a few hectares of open space to plant myself and my easel so I can be happy and content too. hehe.

We didn't get to see the inside of his house, since we were mostly in the workshop area. After his little lecture and demo, we had a little merienda of rice coffee, suman and fruit. I thought to myself "wow, this is really Pinoy hospitality"--turns out we each paid P150 per person for this experience. But it was worth it and I'm glad we scheduled it after our lunch at Ugu's place and not before. Carlito works on commissions but he is also represented by Gallery 9 Manila in SM Megamall.

Lunch at Ugu Bigyan's place in Tiaong, Quezon

The first time I went to Ugu Bigyan's place was almost 15 years ago, with my photographer sister who had come to know of him when she had to shoot him for an article. She had arranged for a group of her friends to have lunch at "this potter's place which serves a really delicious Pinoy food". We went for the day, and even then, we found the 3-hour balikan trip to be enjoyable even if a bit tiring.

Imagine my surprise then to walk into the same place last week. The frontage was the same as before but the grounds are now with "materiales fuertes" structures, tastefully done and beautifully landscaped. Gone were the kubo shacks and benches, although they were already tastefully done then, they were much more rustic. 

 

The food is still delicious, but more sosyal now. For 500 pesos per person, we had halaan soup, pako salad, tahong omelet, prawns with garlic, chunky country-style ribs, a whole fish with mango salsa and the house specialty, kulawong puso ng saging. I forgot to shoot all the other dishes, sayang.

My good friend was surprised to find out that Ugu's full name was Augusto. My other friend, the one who had been hearing about Ugu from me and my sister for many many years now, was surprised to find out he was a person!! Eegads, she thought he was a 'brand', or a name of a place! Goes to show you that my friends don't really listen to me!

Anyway, we asked the waiter where Ugu was and the waiter said Ugu was in the kitchen actually doing all the cooking! I don't know which of his skills overshadow which. He is the architect of his place, he is the chef, and of course he is first and foremost a potter. A real artiste!

When he approached our table, I introduced myself and he enthusiastically asked about my sister. I told him she had given up photography for good, packed her life and is now in Sydney, slaving away, este, cooking at a restaurant--and totally enjoying the experience. He gave me a knowing smile and told me to give her his regards, he remembers her well.

Ugu's pottery is not inexpensive but there are a few times in the year when he puts things for sale. One of them is during his birthday in--guess what month--August of course. On this date, he gives a discount equivalent to his age! This year that might be about 48%. But you have to get there really early. Boots Alcantara of Casa San Pablo told us that he woke up at 6 am for the sale, but his wife thought he was overdoing it. She asked him to wait for her so he took a leisurely breakfast and basically hung around his place (30 minutes away in Laguna) until 9 am. When they got there, the row of parked cars could've reached the next barangay! Okay, my own hyperbole there. But Boots continues to say there was a shopping frenzy, almost everything was gone, and sales had reached the 7-figure mark by the time they got there.

Good thing I have a number of Ugu pieces already and don't feel the need to shop, or to make that trek in August. But it was nice to see Ugu looking so relaxed and content in his pottery garden. He said he renovated the place three years ago when Patis Tesoro asked him to join an association of establishments that would be marketed as the "Viaje del Sol"--in an effort to bring tourism to this part of the country. It really is great marketing and I wish there were more Patis Tesoros who find fulfillment in an effort like this. During our trip, we visited 2 other Viaje del Sol member establishments and it was a wonderful experience for both adults and kids. Galeng!