Why I Like Traveling by Train

We took the Frecciargento of Trenitalia from Rome to Venice

 

One of my most favorite ways to travel around Europe is by train. It's much easier to get in and out of train stations (than airports) and  I like the freedom of not being strapped to a seat. There's also always something interesting to watch--outside the window.

I actually prefer to drive if we can, because we can stop and explore spontaneously.  But if we don't need a car at the point of origin nor at the destination, then the next best option is a train. In exchange for the freedom of a car, in a train we get to relax without having to bother with maps and navigation.

 

Trains usually have  first and second class cars. But unlike a plane, there is hardly any difference between the two and I never bother paying for first class.

Train tickets can be booked online.  If you keep checking the train website,  you might see big price fluctuations and chance upon a great promo. Sometimes, for the cost of one airline ticket , you can buy four train tickets. That alone makes train travel so appealing.

The website "The Man in Seat 61",  has lot of train booking tips.

The only drawback about train travel is that suitcases are stored in racks at the end of each car (and you also have to carry them on and off yourself). If the train has multiple stops, I usually have visions of someone getting off with my suitcase--an image that contradicts my thoughts of why a thief would lug off a suitcase and risk being  caught with a week's worth of laundry.

So far, B and I have come across the Ave in Spain, Deutsch Bahn in Frankfurt and Thalys in Rotterdam. They were all very comfortable and very fast.

Unlike a plane ride, where the objective of the journey is to fill up the hours with mealtimes, movies, and sleep, a train has no in-your-face video screen tempting you to numb your brain. A meal is always available in another car, never trapping you in your seat for hours.

What I look forward to most of all is the quiet time with beautiful scenery speeding by. The view is usually compelling, enough for me to keep my eyes off my smartphone.

And then I get profound thoughts.

Like how the speeding landscape is a metaphor of life, or how a simple journey like this sort of mimics a life goal. (I know, I know--but what can I do it the kids are usually glued to their kindles and B is absorbed by his android?!)

So here I am, being introspective and deep, re-evaluating life goals, dreams and strategies. In our modern busy lives, this block of reflective quiet time is a luxury--and also a gift. (And B wonders how I come up with all my wild ideas?)

I'm usually in the best frame of mind when I arrive at our destination. I'm filled with the  enthusiasm of a traveler, but with a clear mind and wisdom of someone who has also gone on a little retreat.

Travel is definitely educational--seeing new places, experiencing other cultures and traditions. But the journey of getting from one place to another, specially if done mindfully,  can be equally enlightening.

Ostia Antica, not Pompeii

When we were in Rome, I wanted to take the kids to see Pompeii. They know about Pompeii from Mary Pope Osborne's Vacation Under the Volcano. They also read the companion book on facts: Ancient Rome and Pompeii by the same author.

The train from Rome to Pompeii takes about four hours (with train change in Naples) and that seemed like too long a day for us. The train tickets were also not cheap.

And then I stumbled on this bit of information: an alternative to Pompeii was the ancient city of Ostia Antica, conveniently located only 40 minutes from Rome, and at the cost of a metro ride--1 euro! 

It took us longer than two hours to get to Ostia Antica because the guys discovered that, at the metro stop (Pyramide), where we going to transfer to a suburban train to Ostia (Porta Roma San Paolo), was the giant, high-end Italian supermarket, Eataly.

It was serendipitous that Eataly happened to be on the way to Ostia because it's the type of place B  and Timmy would go out of their way to visit.

We finally got to Ostia after lunch and the place was deserted except for a handful of other tourists. It  was a nice change from the crowds in Rome. Entrance was cheap at 6 euro, and kids below 18 were half of that.

The ruins are sprawled out and sparingly marked. For something 2000 years old, Ostia is impressively well-preserved.

Mosaics are still intact, and building walls  help you imagine what the city was like then.

It's easy to think you are just walking in a park, without the facts sinking in--these structures are 2000 years old--older than Jesus Christ! Ancient--as in A-N-C-I-E-N-T.  This is not make believe, it's the real deal, and we could've been easily starring in  National Geographic documentary, right here, right now!

It's times like this that I wish we had a personal guide. A good story-teller would've been able to bring the site to life.

Rick Steves has an  audio guide here but I didn't come across it until after we visited Ostia.

After an hour, half the group bailed and headed back to Rome. I told you--they probably felt like they were just visiting a park.  However, it was the last day in Rome for the teenagers and they wanted to shop, while Coco and Kat were joining a tour of the Pantheon and had to get back in time for that.

We decided to stay on and explore some more. We stayed until 6 pm.

 

This below was a store, with the counter still intact.

 mural of a serpent

In the middle of all these ancient ruins is a museum that houses sculptures and mosaics all found here.

 

Inside the museum...

Well preserved sculpture and mosaics from 1 B.C.

There is also a museum store and a small snack area.

Back outside...
and here is the floor plan of a typical house.

The communal toilets are intact.

This excursion was a change of pace from exploring crowded Rome. From what I understand, Pompeii would've been overrun by crowds too.

Those interested in archeology and history (and interior design) will be fascinated with Ostia Antica.

Those who are not, will enjoy the stop in Eataly.

authentic decorative classical moldings from the real ancient Rome

If you go, be prepared to spend a lazy, reflective day.  Bring a picnic lunch and try to get a guide to tell you all about Ostia and how life was like in ancient Rome. I think it will make all the difference.

I Butteri, Rome

Agnes already warned me, "don't allow them to order anything. Just order the Bistecca Fiorentina for everyone, and that's all. Don't even look at the menu."  She repeated this so many times, and I dutifully repeated it to everyone again when we finally got to the restaurant.

Agnes' husband, Massimo, is from Rome, and I Butteri is one of their favorite restaurants. I love gathering tips on the places I visit, but when the suggestion comes from a local, it's gospel.

Despite the forget-the-menu suggestion, everyone wanted to see the menu and of course, our focus waned. 

 

We saw "scamorza" and remembered "Scamorza al coccio" from a past trip to Umbria. So we ordered it.

scamorza is a cheese similar to mozzarella

Ah, and the pizzas sounded too good to pass up, so we ordered three. I could hear Agnes' command in my head, but I didn't have the energy to stop the others from ordering.

And finally our Bistecca Fiorentina arrived. It's a perfect blue steak, the way B, his family, and the kids  like it. I prefer medium, so I get from the edge.

Each of these chunks of meat is at least one kilo because that's the minimum order.

Even if the pizza was good, we quickly regretted ordering appetizers.

I just had to say "I told you na Agnes said..."

When the steaks were all gone, we (finally) restrained ourselves and ordered one tiramisu for each end of the table.

This is when we should've ordered more.

The meal made such an impression that the guys insisted we go back another night. This time we promised each other we were just going to focus on the main event, the Bistecca Fiorentina.

The kids ordered their own steak.

But the adults ordered 3 kilos of Fiorentina and nothing else. I thought that was a bit much for 6 adults, but I underestimated the men and it was wiped out.

 a 1.5 kilo chunk is a bit too thick

We learned that it's better to order in one-kilo chunks. Heavier than that, the slab is too thick and ends up too rare. We have to come back a third time to get this steak ordering business perfected.

This casual, unpretentious restaurant is popular with the locals.  I didn't notice any tourists the two nights we were there.


If we find ourselves in Rome again, I know this is the first place we'll be headed.

Thanks for the recommendation, Agnes!


PS. Around the corner from I Butteri is the gelateria Bartocci

In Italy, having a gelato is the proper way to end an evening.


I Butteri
Piazza Regina Margherita, 28,
00198 Rome, Italy
+39 06 854 8130

Gelateria Bartocci
Via Alessandria, 145 

00198 Rome, Italy