Up North in Batanes

I'm about to take a trip to another beautiful part of our country with the same cast of characters and I still haven't finished my Batanes posts.  So here is one last one--only because these photos are so gorgeous.

and so are we (hee hee)

Batanes has a variety of rolling hills, steep cliffs, and dramatic shorelines. Now and then, they are punctuated by a rustic abandoned structure or  makeshift shed like this one below.

local men playing cards

It would be hard to take a bad picture in Batanes. All these pictures are just snapped by a regular point-and-shoot camera and my phone.

Batanes is a photographer's paradise.

For city kids who are usually staring into a computer screen or looking down at some gadget, this is also paradise.

Okay, I spoke too soon. When you are overwhelmed with your surroundings, a selfie is excusable.

When people see these pictures, they can't believe landscapes like these exists in the Philippines.  

Mind you, this lying down business in not prompted.

It seems to be a natural reaction to beautiful wide open space, clear skies and clean air. Our country has many of these places (just need to discover them), but I think Batanes is in a class of its own

Our guide told us that Batanes was also very popular with couples who like taking engagement photos. The guy above was in a light-colored linen suit and they were taking turns riding the bike, while their guide/photographer took their photos.

(Btw, our guide also provides that service--he can take you around, and document your trip with his own camera too)

The photos will look like they went to some romantic far away place when actually they are only up north in Batanes. But okay, Batanes is still a bit remote.

I hope the people in charge of Batanes preserve the beauty of the province and not let it get run down by commercialism.

From my last visit twenty years ago, more areas of the island are accessible by vehicle, like this spot that looks so much like Hawaii.

Go visit Batanes while you can. It's not cheap, but it's totally worth the trip.

Meanwhile, we're off on another adventure...

The Coconut Crab of Batanes

We heard so much about the coconut crab being a delicacy and a must-try in Batanes.

Strangely, it wasn't readily available in many restaurants. We later learned that, although it has been declared a threatened species, coconut crab can still be served locally. It just can't be exported out of the province. 

Food in Batanes is not cheap because resources are scarce and some food items are flown in. But P1,800 per kilo for something local, with most of its weight in the shell?  Anyway, we thought we'd regret bypassing the opportunity so we decided to try it. Suckers.

(pictures of crab from here)

We ordered 2 kilos for our group of 11. Bigger suckers.

The crab was presented to us in pieces on a big platter. While excited to  dig in, we were dismayed to find mostly legs. How did we not notice that this crab had no body? This anthropod is mostly long spindly legs and sacs that make up what looks like the body and the butt. The only real meaty part of the whole crab are the two pincers.

  the sacs are filled with crab fat 

Let me qualify that most of us are crab-eaters and know how to extract meat from the legs and happy to go through all the crab cavities to get at the flesh. We really tried to find the meat in this crab but there wasn't much.  As for the taste? Bland and at times tough.

I definitely prefer the fleshy alimango (mud crab) or the sweet alimasag (blue or spider crab) which is abundant in other parts of the country--and not even endangered or expensive.

It was such a let-down that I didn't even take pictures of the cooked crab (I had to get the crab pictures online)

Our verdict? Unless you really enjoy aligue, don't bother. Let them live.

Honesty Coffee Shop, Batanes

So much has already been written about Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana, Batanes but I didn't see this store back in 1995 when we were there.  It seems that it opened that same year.

Since that time, any feature article on Batanes would mention this unique store.

The store is stocked with little snacks like chips, hard boiled eggs, crackers and candies--just like a sari-sari store. There are also some souvenir items. 

But there is no one minding the store. You help yourself to whatever you want, and leave your payment in a box--hence the name: "Honesty" store name. I don't know where the "coffee shop" comes from unless there is a thermos of coffee which I missed.

Signs around the store that say "God is watching you"  or "God knows Hudas not pay" is enough to keep you honest.

The owners had to be tending a farm instead of hanging out in a store, so this model was devised out of necessity. Over the past 20 years, it has turned out to be pure marketing genius.

It's not just a store anymore--it's now a feel-good tourist spot since everyone who comes to Batanes likes to see and photograph the "Honesty Coffee Shop" (just like us). Sometimes they even leave money (not like us) without even taking anything.

Ivana town, Batanes

From my trip to Batanes in 1995, I remember the churches with brightly-colored facades.  This is San Jose de Ivana church. It has been nicely maintained throughout the years.

 

Here I am with fellow golfers (yes, I was a golfer in another life) in front of the same church in 1995. 

I remember we had a nice visit with the parish priest back them. Too bad I didn't take down his name.

 

Today the grounds of the church are a bit more manicured. Look at how big these podocarpus maki trees are. In Manila, we see them usually as bushes or hedges.
 

The boats to Sabtang island leave from Ivana town. The church faces the pier and Sabtang.

To the left of the pier is the famous "Honesty Cafe".

 I love the rustic windows of Batanes.

The view of the sea and Sabtang must be spectacular from up there.

 

But I'm already tired just watching them from down here. 

(I can hear my dad's voice in my head. "Haaay nakuuuu Marivic! Whaaat are those kids doing up theeeere?!?!?!")

 

Exploring.  Having fun. Batanes is beautiful. Can't say it enough.

(I'm glad they got down safely. whew!)

The House of Dakay in Ivana, Batanes

The "house of Dakay" is said to be the oldest house in Ivana, Batanes. There was once a Lola Ida who lived in the house, and was considered the most photographed Ivatan in Batanes. I read though that she passed away early this year.

I don't know who takes care of the house now.

Tourism is really all about marketing, and how to present things. House of Dakay is one good example.  It could've easily been just one of the original stone houses in Batanes, like the others we saw around Batan and Sabtang islands.

The difference is someone had the bright idea of writing down the history, and for good reason, because there IS a story to tell!

This is a regular photo-op stop now in all the tours I've seen of Batanes.

Even the home we stayed in has a lot of history. It is written down in their "welcome book" for all the guests to read. This type of marketing effort always makes things more interesting and charming.

 Batanes has still more to offer, and seeing the way "house of Dakay" is presented is quite promising.

If someone just digs up more information (and gossip) about the other homes, weave some stories together--there may be other interesting homes to visit.

Aside from who lived here, it would be fascinating to know how these homes were built: how they prepared the stones, how they bonded them together with lime, and other architectural details.

The mayor of Sabtang told us that today, it costs more money to build a traditional stone house compared to building one made of hollow blocks and concrete. Because of this, more people are abandoning the stone houses to build modern homes.

And yet, that's the charm of Batanes--that the province seems untouched by modern conveniences. The stone houses are a reminder of another era.

I hope the ones remaining will be protected the way house of Dakay is preserved and respected.